Professional climbing coach Justen “The Sensei” Sjong and Climbing Magazine teamed up to create a 9-week program designed especially for the 5.9 to 5.11 climber. Dedicate yourself to it, and you’ll climb an entire grade harder.
A long held belief in climbing is that the best way to improve and climb at higher grades is simply to climb more. There’s an undeniable logic to that, but at some point, in the words of pro climbing coach Justen Sjong, “Just climbing more isn’t as beneficial as targeting your training.” But what do you do? How do you turn a gym session into a training session with measurable results? How many days and how long do you train? What exercises will most benefit your climbing?
Learn from the pros
Professional climbing coach Justen “The Sensei” Sjong understands these questions better than just about anyone on the planet. He’s been climbing since 1992 and has established some of the hardest free big-wall climbs in the world, including Magic Mushroom (5.14a VI) on El Cap. He has had great success as a climbing coach as well, having instructed Daniel Woods, Emily Harrington, and Alex Puccio among others.
If you’re a 5.9 to 5.11 climber, this course is for you.
Through videos, weekly training programs, and periodic discussions, we’ll cover:
- Engaging your inner athlete
- The power of rest
- A detailed weekly program for each of the 9 weeks
- and much more!
How It Works
You can login and begin your training at your own pace from any device, anywhere you have a Wi-Fi connection. You’ll have access to the course and its resources forever.Climbing is a big investment of time and energy. You owe it to yourself to invest wisely. This course will help you climb one grade harder.
This course follows a Monday-Sunday schedule, focusing on rest to be able to let your muscles recuperate and heal after a hard day in the gym. Below is a daily schedule of what your week will entail.
Tuesday: Roped Climbing*
Weekend: Climb for fun, hang out with your friends and family
In addition to the daily schedule, each week focuses on a different aspect of your climbing.
Week 1: Assess your climbing ability – where you are at this moment
Week 2 and Week 3: Establishing your base fitness level
Week 4: Improving your finger strength
Week 5: Rest Week
Week 6: Improving your finger strength
Week 7 and Week 8: Improving your performance
Week 9: Evaluate your progress
But know this: We realize that life obligations can get in the way, that partners can flake, that every climber’s schedule will be a little bit different. It’s A-ok to swap days so long as you are completing each week’s work before progressing and so long as you are not climbing on back-to-back days. So while we will present the program on a Monday to Sunday schedule, realize that you can adapt this to what works best for your life.
*Within the program, there will be alternate activities on Tuesdays for those who wish to focus solely on bouldering.